In Jesus' Steps

Today was by far the most emotionally exhausting day of this Pilgrimage for me.  

We started the day in the Old City of Jerusalem at the Pool of Bethesda where Jesus healed a lame man who laid in the same spot by the pool for 38 years.

We then made our way to Via Dolorosa to begin praying the Stations of the Cross.  The 1st Station was prayed at Church of the Way.

  

In the same courtyard is the Chapel of Condemnation where we prayed the 2nd Station of the Cross.

These stones at the 4th Station date back to the time of Jesus (100 BCE - 100 CE). In Israel, they use BCE for Before Common Era and CE for Common Era in place of the BC and AD used by Christians.  They were found 3 meters (~10 feet) below the current street level and were partially restored.  This gives us an idea of the surface He walked on and see how it would be easy to fall...as if the burden of the cross was not enough to make Him fall.

Surprisingly enough, only a handful of times during our time in Israel so far do I remember seeing the military.  They are clearly doing a good job behind the scenes as I feel very safe here.










Along the Via Dolorosa, there are markings like this to signify the Station of the Cross. I noticed other pilgrims following the way of the cross alone.  For me, I am thankful Father West lead us along the way and in prayer at each station.

I did not take a lot of picture along the walk as it just felt inappropriate.  As I mentioned, it was a pretty emotional day...much more than I was expecting.  The last couple years have been some pretty challenging years for me and my family and I've begun to rely more and more on my faith...more so than I ever have in the past.  This pilgrimage came at the right time for me and my journey.

As we walked the uneven steps in the crowded streets, I would find myself weary and irritated by all the people (much of the current walk goes through a Muslim market as the Via Dolorosa is in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City).  It would make me think about what Jesus must have endured that day for us.  Until today, I could really never imagine what the path He took must have looked like from a physical standpoint...would never even attempt to image the emotions He was feeling that day.  We had it easy as we were not carrying a giant cross, beaten, bleeding, weary, hungry, wearing a crown of thorns, perhaps scared and uncertain, people spitting and throwing things and all the other things Jesus endured that day.  Today really put a lot of things in perspective for me.

Last Fall I participated in an Alpha program at church and one of the questions asked in our small group was "if Jesus walked in the door right now, what would you say to him?"  I vividly remember my response was "We have really messed this place up after all You did for us, haven't we?".  Walking the path today I realize how appropriate my answer was.  As if giving His life for us wasn't enough, the manner in which He did so must have been so completely agonizing.

The last 6 Stations of the Cross are prayed inside The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The church is actually built upon Mount Calvary...again something until this trip I never knew (or at least I don't think I did).  When you walk into the church, you turn to the right and literally start climbing up Calvary.  Very steep steps were cut into the stone so you are able to get to the top of the Mount.  During our wait to get to the alter, we prayed the 9th through 13th Stations of the Cross. 

  

As you approach the alter, you get single file and then upon arriving at the alter, you kneel and crawl under the alter.  There is a small hole (large enough for a hand to enter) and when place your hand inside, you touch the spot where the cross where Jesus died stood.  There really aren't words to describe the feeling.

At the bottom of the steps leaving Calvary, is the Washing Stone.  This is where Jesus lay as He was prepared for burial. In accordance with Jewish tradition, His body was washed with water, anointed with oil and then perfume was applied to His body before being wrapped in the shroud and placed in the tomb.  There were so many people around the Washing Stone, it was hard to get a photo.

We concluded by praying the 14th Station of the Cross just feet from Jesus' tomb.

On one side of Jesus' tomb, there is a little opening.  Now I can't remember the full story for the use of the opening but the gist is this.  One day a priest went into the tomb with an unlit candle and upon entering, the Holy Spirit lit the candle.  To release the smoke, the small opening was added.  Over time, the opening became a place for pilgrims to gather annually as the act would be repeated.  Once the Holy Spirit lit the candle, the light would be passed through the opening to the faithful standing with bundles of candles.  Each bundle of candles consisted of 33 candles for the 33 years Jesus walked the earth.  The light from the one candle would light the bundles and the pilgrims would take the candles back to loved ones.








By now, it was time for lunch and I think we all needed a little levity in our day.  Tamar, our guide, took us to a restaurant in the Muslim Quarter where we had Falafel and Shwarma...yum!

We did have a little excitement as we were leaving the Old City today.  As we were walking through the Jaffa gate, two police had a man up against the wall and emptying his pockets.  I saw an inhaler, wallet, phone and some change on the ground.  The problem came when the police were telling him to take his hands out of his pockets but he refused.  So as I passed by, another office pulled his gun on him and then starting talking VERY loudly but still he wouldn't remove his hands.  We ran out the gate and off to the side.  Finally, they pulled out a taser and got him to the ground.  Half of the group was still insde the city so our guide went back in just as they closed the door.  Fortunately she knew of another exit and brought everyone out safely.

After lunch, we made our way over to Mount of Olives to the Chapel of the Ascension. There is a mosque on top of Mount of Olives andd it, as well as the Chapel of the Ascension, are owned by a Muslim family who also use the chapel as a mosque.  The Chapel of Ascension was built around the stone upon which Jesus stood as He ascended into Heaven.

From here, we made our way to the Church of the Pater Noster.  Lining the walls of the church is the Lord's Prayer in languages from all over the world.  There is the grotto where Jesus sat with His disciples and taught them the Lord's Prayer. "One day Jesus was praying in a certain place.  When he finished, one of his disciples said to him, 'Lord, teach us to pray, just as John taught his disciples.'  He said to them, 'When you pray, say: Father, hallowed be your name, your kingdom come. Give us each our daily bread. Forgive us our sins, for we also forgive everyone who sins against us.  And lead us not into temptation.'" (Luke 11)  It was pretty powerful standing there in a circle in the same place where Jesus taught His disciples to pray the Lord's Prayer as we stood there and prayed it as well.

Our next stop was just a little walk to the spot on Mount of Olives where Jesus could have stood as he wept for Jerusalem while looking at the Temple that He knew would soon be destroyed.  Today in place of the Second Temple stands the al-Aqsa Mosque.  This is the 3rd most holy place for Muslims (behind Mecca and Medina).

Directly below where we stood is the oldest Jewish cemetery in Israel.  As we were there on Shabbat, there were many families visiting today.  This is a highly coveted place to be buried and it cost as much as $40,000 for a spot.  In Jewish tradition, the body is placed feet facing east so that when the Messiah comes, they will be able to get up and follow him.

View of Mount of Olives

The Church of Dominus Flevit.  The dome is shaped like an upside down tear drop to serve as a reminder of the tears Jesus shed over the future fate of Jerusalem.

Of course no pilgrimage site would be complete without some commercialization.  There was a camel for hire and several folks took a ride, including Father West.  We are so fortunate to have him as our priest as he has a kind, gentle spirit and great sense of humor.

Our final stop of the day was Gethsemane Garden and the Church of the Agony where we celebrated mass. Gethsemane Garden is where the disciples waited (and slept) while Jesus was praying for His fate in the very near future.   The church was built around the stone believed to have been the stone where Jesus wept blood as He prayed to God about what was to come.  The stone is surrounded by crowns of the thorns.  Outside in the garden are beautiful olive trees ranging from one year old to over 2,000 years old.

Every night we all gather in the hotel bar (really you're not surprised a bunch of Catholics make their way to a bar, are you?) before heading to dinner.  Here's a few pics of my people:

What a day!  Until tomorrow, Layla Tov.