Beyond Zulu Nyala

Our stay at Zulu Nyala included 2 game drives a day but given the size of the reserve (4,500 acres) you can see most of the property in 3 days, so groups often take excursions to see other things in the area. The South African government sets the rules for the types of animals and number of those animals based upon the size of the preserve to ensure the preserve can sustain the animals without depleting all the preserve resources. Due to its size, Zulu Nyala is a Big 4 game preserve (elephants, buffalo, rhinos and leopards)…it’s a little too small for lions because they require a lot of space. One of the excursions our group decided on was a trip to a nearby public park called Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park which is a Big 5 park and is also the oldest proclaimed reserve in Africa (started in 1895). Interesting fact: every rhino in South Africa can trace its genetics back to Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park thanks to Ian Player and Operation Rhino. In the 1960’s when the rhino was on the verge of extinction, Ian Player formed Operation Rhino to repopulate the rhino species.  The program was so successful the park had so many rhinos they shared them with all the parks and reserves in South Africa.  For the golfers out there, Ian’s brother is Gary Player.

As a public park, it is similar to the national parks in the US…you pay an entry fee and then you are on your own to explore. Leigh actually works at Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park during the summer (our winter) and Zulu Nyala during the winter so we had an insider tour of the property. We often encountered others in their private vehicles doing it on their own and I cannot imagine trying to navigate the 500,000 acres of Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park and not to mention knowing what some of the animals are and where they tend to be or the very rugged roads at times.

 

Game drives are more about patience (those of you that know me well, are probably laughing at the thought of me having patience!) and luck as there is no way to predict where specific animals may be at any particular moment. Leigh heard from another ranger about one of the lionesses being spotted the day before our visit so we tracked her all the way to a path into the bush but unfortunately because it is a public park, we could not off road like we can at Zulu Nyala. Even though we did not find her, it was fun to track her and learn the signs Leigh looks for when tracking. 

While looking for the lioness, we came across elephants in the river. Leigh said it was actually his favorite spot in the park but unfortunately due to the river washing out the road, we could not get up close and personal but was had a fabulous view on the hill above the river. 

The warthogs at Zulu Nyala are not as accustomed to cars so they tend to run away when they hear us but the ones at Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park are used to all the visitors and were unfazed by us which allowed for some good photo ops. One of the little guys had a hole in his bum from a rhino.

  

The Cape Buffalo were out and about as well. These guys are definitely a little intimidating with their big horns and brooding look. 

Smango and Vervet monkeys were entertaining. So cute watching them groom each other. 

Zebras were all over the place as well.  We came across one group and Leigh pointed out that one of the ladies had scars from where a lion had tried to attack her.  Did you know the only way to tell a male from a female zebra is by the thickness of the black line in their bum?  As you can see from this one, the line under the tail is pretty wide…that indicates it is a female as the black covers up her girly parts.  Also, the proper pronunciation of the animal is “zeh-bruh”…it is not “zee-bra”.

We saw a lot of Impala and it did make it a little hard to eat it the night it was on the menu.  Not gonna lie, it was pretty tasty.

White Back Vulture

Starling

While there are crocs and hippos at Zulu Nyala, they are not always easy to find so our group headed to St. Lucia to do a river cruise in hopes of seeing hippos and crocs. The trip did not disappoint as we saw a few crocs and a lot of hippos and a few other wildlife. 

The African Darter

Nile Monitor

While having lunch in St. Lucia, we spotted this little guy just wandering the streets! We also saw vervet monkeys hanging around town. This is definitely a place where you have to be on your toes while roaming the streets as hippos frequently are on the streets!

Our final stop of the day was the beach at St. Lucia.  Very proud of LuLu for stepping out of her comfort zone and stepping into the Indian Ocean! I wish I had a picture of her face when the cold water (72 degrees) hit her feet 🤣 

Our First Game Drive

What a journey it was but arriving at Zulu Nyala made it worth it! After our 2.5 hour flight to Boston, we had a 7.5 hour flight to Amsterdam followed by a 2.5 hour layover until our final 10.5 hour leg to Johannesburg. In total our travel time was 23 hours and through it all, LuLu was a trooper as always! As a bonus, I got 2 more KLM houses for my collection!

We spent 2 nights at Peermont D’oreale Grande about 5 minutes from Johannesburg Airport and just lounged around hotel and had massages to get us in vacation mode. On Thursday, we were back at JNB for our flight to Richards Bay (closest airport to Zulu Nyala). From Richards Bay, we had a 1.5 hour drive to the Game Reserve. Richards Bay is a small airport and reminds me of the original Charleston airport…walk down stairs and one baggage hole where your luggage shoots out!

Instead of “wide load” like in the US, the trucks here are labeled “abnormal” 🤣

At long last, we arrived and after a very tasty lunch, we headed to our room (definitely much nicer than expected). They do have luxury tents here but I prefer a nice stone wall between me and nature 😂. The room could comfortably accommodate 4 people (2 adults and 2 kids) as there are 2 twin beds (or couples can get a king) and 2 day beds. The bathroom is very large with a huge shower and giant tub. Their door tag for service or do not disturb is great!

Not going to lie the 5:30am wake up call was a little rough but seeing 3 of the Big 5 on our first game drive was worth it! Zulu Nyala sits next to Phinda Game Reserve which is where today’s elephant spotting was…yesterday 3 of the ladies of Zulu Nyala were out and about so hopefully we will see them at some point. Of the Big 5, we saw an elephant, a buffalo (Cape Buffalo) and a mom and son white rhinoceros.  Fingers crossed we will see a lion and leopard but if we do not, oh well, we are having a good time.  I told our guide, Leigh, I would love to see a lion but if I do not, then it is what it is.  He said it was a good attitude because so many people come with expectations of what they will see and when they do not, they say their trip was not a success.  I mean, seriously, you are in Africa and up close and personal with animals in their natural habitat, so how can it not be a great trip?! When you arrive, you are assigned a ranger who is with you for your entire stay…he also doubles as a concierge so to speak as he helps set up any excursion you may want to take…we got super lucky with Leigh as he is very knowledgeable and has a great sense of humor!  All the trucks do line up before each drive but they all go their separate way once we are in the bush so you do not feel like you are part of some caravan thankfully!

Helmeted Guinea Fowl

Wildebeest 

Cape Buffalo (our 1st Big 5 spotting)

Great Kudu

Egyptian Goose

White Rhinoceros

The wildest animal of all…the LuLu 🤣

Warthog 

Black Impala (color is due to a genetic defect)

Impala

While it may have been really cold and really early, we definitely enjoyed our first game drive!  We have a morning and late afternoon drive daily and we cannot wait to see what animals are out and about this afternoon!

We're Off to See Lions & Tigers...Oh My!

For as long as I can remember, going on a photo safari in Africa has been on my bucket list and we are heading to South Africa by way of a stop over in Boston...and then a connection in Amsterdam.  There are direct flights from Atlanta to Johannesburg but the thought of an 18+ hours single flight was honestly not that appealing.  This way we get to see our friends, Lisa & Scott, while in Boston and we can stretch our legs good during our 3 hour layover at AMS. Ever the planner and always thinking about possible challenges in logistics, we are going to arrive in Johannesburg on July 8 and spend 2 nights relaxing before heading to Hluhluwe for our safari.  

It is fitting we stop off in Boston to see Lisa because if it was not for her, we would not be going on this trip right now.  Lisa's beautiful niece, Alyssa June Fluet, sadly passed just weeks before beginning her senior year of college in August 2023.  I had known Alyssa since she was a twinkle in her dad's eye and the news was just heartbreaking.  Alyssa's parents, Michael and Diane, established an endowment at Salem State University in her memory to help other aspiring performing arts students.  In April 2024, a fundraiser was held and they had an online auction where there was a 7 day African photo safari and we won!  As fate would have it, we will be on the trip on what would have been Alyssa's 23rd birthday, July 18...it really was just meant to be.

Fabulous dinner with Lisa & Scott

We decided since we are going so far (did I mention it was a long flight?!), we should extend our time and see Cape Town, Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) and Johannesburg.  My company partners with Dragonfly Africa when we have programs in South Africa so I reached out to have them help with our arrangements as I am not familiar with this part of the world. They have been absolutely fabulous during the planning phase and so patient with my multitude of questions (a meeting planner always has a million questions!).

To say we are excited about this adventure is an understatement!