Back to Paris

We made our way back to Paris and what a change in weather from the previous week!  Last week it lightly rained every day and the temps were in the mid-50’s. This week the temps were in the upper 80’s and low 90’s with the sun shining. Last week we visited Sacre Coeur but didn’t get to the little church next door, Saint-Pierre de Montmartre so we hopped on the funicular back up the hill.   We saw our friend, St. Anthony, of course.  After we strolled around the area and saw the painters of Place du Tertre...it is fun to think about what it was like back when van Gogh, Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec and the others were hanging out in this square.

Ever had one of those meals where you wished it was socially acceptable to sop up the sauce with some bread? Well then you definitely need to make your way to France as not only is it acceptable but encouraged!  

One of the things we enjoy is visiting the opera houses in the various cities of Europe so of course we had to visit the Palais Garnier (Paris Opera House) and see not only the building itself but the famed chandelier and private box of the Phantom of the Opera!  The facade of the building is under renovations but there was a small part not behind scaffolding.  Like with many of the major sites in Paris, it is highly recommended to purchase tickets in advance (several of the site require it and do not sell on site) so make sure to do your research to avoid disappointment and long lines.

I will say I have never in all my travels seen so many people posing for photos and taking selfies as I did at the Palais Garnier.  We couldn't believe the number of women dressed like they thought they were actually going to the opera!  Hopefully they brought a change of clothes and didn't walk around the city all dressed up especially in the record high temps!

The Phantom of the Opera's Box

(you could only look in through the little window)

Near the Palais Garnier is the Galleries Lafayette which is a giant department store.  A little Google search says it is 750,000 square feet and it would not surprise me if that was correct.  In addition to all the shopping, the dome of the store is one of those "must sees" according to all the influencers.  Since we were nearby, we figured we'd check it out.  We decided while it was pretty, it really wasn't worth all the hype.  You can see in the photo on the right side there is a glass walkway...this is another area for all the folks posing for photos and the one where all the influencers shoot their videos.  Bottom line, if you're nearby, it is worth the look but don't make a special trip.

Not too far away was Saint-Augustin Church.  The church was built between 1860 and 1871 and was the first church in Paris to have a fully visible cast-iron frame combined with stone construction.  The combination is so seamless I almost forgot that was one of the reasons we were going to visit.  Like most churches the longer you sit and just look you discover many hidden gems.

Rather than going up the Eiffel Tower, we opted to go up the Arc de Triomphe as it is a less crowded experience (at least early in the day) and you get just as good of a view.  The climb to the top is 284 windy stairs but don't worry, I didn't have LuLu make the climb.  Like many other sites in Paris, they do make accommodations for the elderly and handicap and we were able to take the elevator up to the level that connects the sides of the arc and then they had a small lift that took us straight to the top.  When I was in Paris in 2012, I had a torn meniscus and one of the workers noticed me limping so he allowed us on the elevator but back then, it only took you up to the first level and then you did have to climb about 30 more steep steps to get to the top so it was a nice surprise to see the addition of the second lift.  Again, I'm very impressed with the changes being made throughout Europe to make visiting the sites more accessible for everyone!

The Tomb of the French World War I Unknown Soldier 

Every Christmas when we have the Underwood-Harnig Christmas, I make a European style hot chocolate inspired by a previous visit to Angelina in Paris.  LuLu and I enjoyed a delicious Quiche Lorraine and salad followed by Angelina's famous hot chocolate.  No matter the time of year or the temperatures outside, their hot chocolate is a definite must have.

They do not accept reservations so there could be a line outside.  We got lucky as I walked inside to ask a question of the hostess about the wait and she took LuLu and me to a seat straight away.  Here's a tip when traveling to France (really anywhere) be polite and always start with "Bonjour" and you will be surprised at the response and treatment you receive.

As we were making our way to La Madeleine Church, we stumbled across Our Lady of the Assumption that is part of the Polish Catholic Mission in Paris.  It was First Communion day for several of the kids as they were all dressed in their white robes outside and some inside taking final photos.  

And of course, our friend was there.  The only places we have not found him in France was Notre Dame and La Madeleine.

The official name for La Madeleine is The Church of Saint Mary Magdalene.  The building itself does not look like a tradition church...it actually looks a bit like a government building from the outside.  The builders were a bit indecisive during the construction.  It originally was a church then became a memorial to the heroes and victims of the Revolution and eventually back to a church.  It has one of the most beautiful altars we have ever seen.  Don't be put off by the outside or the stairs, it is definitely worth a visit.

We had the unexpected pleasure of a mini concert from the organist which made the place feel even more special.

Joan of Arc

We started our final day in Paris with a typical Parisian breakfast (coffee, juice and pastries) at Le Cafe Marly overlooking the Louvre.  It was a great way to wrap up our time and think about all we have seen and done.  

We had our tickets but the line was still insanely long to get through security (can't afford to have any more heist at the world's largest museum).  Most museums in Paris are closed on Mondays but the Louvre is open (closed on Tuesdays) so it was no surprise it was crowded. I had read they do have a special line for elderly and handicap so we found our way and bypassed the line outside and inside.  When we got up to the floor where the Mona Lisa was located, I asked a guard for the best way to get to the room and he said "follow me" and to our surprise he took us right up to the painting.  I mean right in front of her...no standing behind the barricade that is required by the public!  Again, a friendly "Bonjour", "Merci" and "S'il Vous Plait" goes a long way!

Don't forget to turn around after you have looked at the Mona Lisa as The Wedding Feast of Caan is absolutely stunning.

LuLu took a shot at mimicking her smile but I do like LuLu's regular smile so much more as it is one of the many things I love most about her. 

Winged Victory (circa 190 BC) 

Because we didn't have enough carbs at breakfast, we stopped at the fancy cafe inside the Louvre for a little sustenance. 

To avoid having to get up too early on our departure date, we decided to move to the Sheraton at Charles de Gaulle airport...it is connected to Terminal 2C which is connected to our departure terminal 2E.  The hotel sent an email letting us know about their VIP Airport Experience where we would have an escort from the hotel to the check-in desk then get fast tracked through security and escorted directly to the lounge.  Having been to and through this airport many times and every time feeling very exhausted by the time I got to my gate, I thought we would give it a try.  There is something about the French that just seems to make the simplest of things the most complicated...don't get me wrong everyone is very polite but man do they overcomplicate things! Both LuLu and I agreed it was money well spent. As always, we had a wonderful time and I am so very grateful and blessed to be able to share these moments with LuLu and create so many great memories.